On the left-hand page:

To-dos for the day go in the 'action list'. There's a priority column for determining order/importance, and an EST column for entering how much time you think it will take to perform the task. There's an unlabeled column for recording what you did with it (schedule forward, delegate, done, in progress, etc.).

The schedule isn't labeled with AM/PM, so it would probably work OK for someone on the graveyard shift as well as a day-shifter. It's got 15-minute intervals marked to make it easier to enter meetings, etc.

I enter my voicemail messages received that day in the "Voicemail Log" section. It's freeform so I can record the message on as many lines as required to fit it in. I don't get many voicemails each day, so it's a small section.

The Food Log is for the person trying to control weight--to lose, gain, or otherwise. It's got prompts for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and three snacks, and a small spot to record your weight that day.

On the right-hand page:

A record/notes section with each line individually numbered for easy indexing (a la Covey). There's a column for the item itself as well as a column for owner or due date.

Beneath is a section for Personal Notes/Journal. For myself, I intend to record such wonders as my kids latest developments, how I felt that day, conversations with family & friends, ideas for personal projects/growth, etc.

To use it for any other month than November 2006, open the source and change out the dates in the left-hand page titles.

For the 1-up file: Then print all the dated left pages. Flip your stock in the printer, then print enough copies of the undated right-hand page to cover the backs of all the dated pages.

For the 2-up file: Print half the pages on 8.5x11, then flip and reload in the printer. Print the other half of the pages. Then slice apart and punch. They might even come out in the right order. :) For months with odd days, there's a page at the end of the file that has a double notes/record page so you don't end up with some crazy date on the back of the last page of your month.

Note: to be like Covey, you'd put a 'master task list' on the back of the 1st day of the month, and the back of the last 'record' page would be something else. Those kinds of pages can be found in the Core template, I think.

This is a PDF conversion of the Flylady Pages created by ScrapBunny and found at http://www.diyplanner.com/node/572 - you should be able to just print it out in Acrobat.

The Holiday Planning Calendar is designed to be an overview of which list to use each week leading up to the holiday season. Each year, write in the dates for that year, starting with the last week, the week of New Year's Day. Map the holidays you observe on the calendar. The first week on the chart will generally be the last partial week of October, and the last week will be the first partial week of January.

The six action pages correspond to the large gray words printed on the Calendar. So, the first week, you'll use the "Organize" list, the second week you'll use the "Plan" list, etc. These lists are the to-dos for each of six weeks you do the heavy prep for the holidays. There's room to add extra items if you have different/extra holiday tasks, such as charitable work, religious observances, etc.

The menu planner is a simple sheet for planning the menu of a holiday meal. You can use one or more lines for each dish to make sure you have all the right ingredients on hand. You can also remind yourself whether the dish can be made ahead, and which day you plan to make it. You can post the menu on the fridge on the big day so your helpers can understand the plan, too.

The Master Gift List is one-line-per-person. Include all of the people you plan to buy gifts for, or whose list you're on. There's a spot for writing down what they want, what you want from them (and whether you've given them that idea or not), what you'll actually give them, and whether you've got the item on hand, wrapped, or mailed. If you have a lot of folks to buy for, you can use separate forms for each branch of the family.

The "About Gift Recipients" forms (left- and right-hand pages) record basic information about these individuals' interests, sizes, pets, and any notes you want to record. You'd put on this list long-term info to remember, since the Gift List form has the spot for this year's particular ideas. So, for example, if sister Jane likes to belly dance, you'd record that here--but if she longs for finger cymbals, you'd record that on the Master Gift List.

I made most of the pages fat margin on the left just because it's easy. The source is included if you'd rather have some more right-handed holes. The PDF is in there too.

This is a daily task list that I created when I couldn't find what I needed in the office supply stores. I looked at many different kinds of DAILY pages and TO DO lists, but couldn't find one that functioned the way I needed it too...so I made my own.

This template creates 4 sets of Benjamin Franklin's The Art of Virtue templates.

Excellent for printing out and carrying since each 'page' is the size of a 3x5 index card. Could be printed on cardstock. You may wish to laminate some sheets.
Each of the 13 virtues is backed by blank templates for future use.

Print out both pages on heavy cardstock (I used 110lb Card Stock, not the lighter-weight Cover Stock). I say print both just because you might decide you want a bigger or smaller box after you see how it folds up, so you might as well do them both. But the template is only one letter-size sheet. I would expect that A4 would work, just don't resize the image before printing. Trimming the image would be fine.

Cut around the edges of the image with a scissors. This will make a plus-shaped piece of cardstock.

Decide how you want your box to be closed. You have several options:
* Tab-and-slot. This is the default. It won't close very tightly, but it won't pop open spontaneously I don't think. If you want this, cut the diagonal lines on the top flap to make the flap come to a broad point. Then slice the slot on the bottom flap with an X-acto knife (or other sharp blade).
* Velcro dot. You can cut along the diagonals or not as you wish, but don't cut the slot. Stick the dot to the top flap first, then use that to place the dot on the bottom flap. The self-adhesive dots are pretty easy to work with.
* Ribbon-tie. You can cut small slots for the ribbon to pass through or not as you please. Cut the point in the top flap or not as you please.
* Rubber band. Don't cut the slot. Cut the point if you want. Just wrap a rubber band around it all to keep it closed.
* Binder clip. The larger box requires a 1.25" clip. The smaller one will take a 3/4" clip. I recommend NOT cutting the top flap to a point, simply because the rectangular flap will give you more places to put the clip.

Finish your cutting based on your decision (above).

Use the blunt rounded side of a butter knife (not the side with the teeth) to score along the remaining lines. Just press down so you can see that the fibers have been squished by the knife. This will help you fold more easily. You can skip this if you want, but your folds will be much cleaner if you score the lines. Use a ruler with a metal edge to guide the knife in a straight line.

Fold all of the horizontal and vertical lines. Fold them all in the same way, so all the flaps stand up when you're finished. I folded mine so the printing would be inside the finished box, but you could do the opposite if you want the lines to show on the outside of the box.

Put your stack of cards inside the box. Fold the short flaps in, then the long flaps. Close the box using your preferred method.

Print both pages on heavy cardstock. I use 110 lb cardstock, not the lighter weight cover stock. You only need one page, but you might decide after folding one that you need a bigger or smaller one, so you might as well do them both at once.

Cut around the edges of the diagram to make a plus shape. Decide whether you want a tab-and-slot closure or some other closure (see also the envelope-style hipster cases for more details).

Use the rounded, dull side of a butter knife to score the horizontal and vertical lines. This will help you fold the creases more cleanly later. Use a metal-edged or other strong ruler to help you guide the butter knife in a straight line.

Fold all of the creases you just scored. Fold them all the same direction, so the flaps all point up when you're done.

Put your cards in the center of the plus. Fold the side, small tabs in over your stack, then the bottom (non-pointy) tab up. Finally, fold the top (pointy) tab down and tuck it in the slot if you chose to do the tab-and-slot closure.

Note: Once you've got the hang of this template, you can transfer the design to a more decorative piece of cardstock--the kind that won't go through your laser or inkjet printer. The thumbnail shows a box made from cardstock that won't go through a printer. Thick and textured cardstocks will work with this box, though textured, ribbed, or lumpy ones will be less suitable as writing surfaces.

shris

I make a list of things to do, then I priority this list. I used the original priority matrix to prioritize my lists, but it was too small. I use the list and matrix on a weekly basis, so adding things to the list as the week progressed was more difficult with the smaller space, ie this creation.

Included is the open office draw file and pdf. I print these on one page as inspired by flexiblefine, http://www.diyplanner.com/node/986. I also added a check list to the 'outside' of the folded sheet so my notes would have some order rather than lines on blank space.

Print out onto a letter-size page, landscape orientation. Punch holes along the left (8.5 in) margin. Fold the page towards the rings or spiral binding, then when you need to check the calendar, fold it out--it will extend out past the pages of your planner for reference.

I'm making notes of future appointments and goals on the pages or just using it to look up dates.

Hope this is helpful to someone.

Use this to record the textbooks that you get out for school. It has date, title, staff (to sign that it is returned) and barcode (so you know which one is yours), with another column (in the second version that appears here) for which subject the book is for.

I recommend filling it out, so if you lose your textbooks, you know what the barcode is and if you have returned it and things like that.
To print:
- Letter and A4 planner users just print as usual.
- Classic and A5 planner users go File -> Print Setup and change the paper size to what you use. It should work.